Worth One's Salt: Pimientos de Padrón

In the foreground of this glorious arrangement of tapas, photographed in Bilbao, Spain, is the glistening pimiento de padrón. Grown by sixteenth-century monks in the parish of Padrón in the northwest region of Galicia, this bite-sized pepper is the perfect conveyance for salt and good olive oil and should be washed down with cold beer. While most are not spicy, the occasional pepper packs heat (about one in seven), adding a touch of mystery to your padrón popping. The fruit (yes, a fruit since it grows on stems above ground) recently made its way from Spain's tapas bars to farmer's markets in the New World. Thankfully. But in the beginning, four centuries ago, the seeds arrived in Galicia in the luggage of a Spanish missionary returning from Mexico. Like so much of what we eat, the pimiento de padrón is a story of globalization.

To enjoy, heat one tablespoon of good olive oil in a large skillet, add peppers and fry for 5-7 minutes over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until peppers shrivel and begin to blister. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil and a generous sprinkling of coarse sea salt. Buen provecho.